Steak au poivre is the French bistro classic: thick filet mignon pressed into coarsely cracked black peppercorns, seared hard, then served with a pan sauce of shallot, flamed cognac and cream. The pepper brings heat and crunch, the cream rounds it off, and the whole dish takes about 40 minutes from cold pan to plate.
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Why crack the peppercorns instead of grinding them?
A pepper mill set to coarse still produces mostly fine powder, and fine pepper scorches in a hot pan and tastes acrid. Steak au poivre needs pieces the size of coarse sand or a little bigger, so the crust has crunch and the heat comes in short bursts rather than one flat burn.
- Under a skillet. Spread the peppercorns on a cutting board, set a heavy pan on top and rock it with your palm until each one splits into four or five pieces.
- In a mortar. Pound lightly, a tablespoon at a time. It's quick, and you can see the size as you go.
- In a zip bag. Lay the bag flat and roll over it with a rolling pin, pressing hard.
Tip the cracked pepper into a fine sieve and shake out the dust. That dust is what makes some versions taste bitter. Salt the steaks first, then press the pepper firmly into both flat sides with the heel of your hand so it sticks. Leave the edges bare; they get a quick sear of their own.
Filet mignon vs strip steak for steak au poivre
The classic French version uses filet mignon, cut from the tenderloin. It's lean and very tender, and its mild flavor lets the pepper and cream take over. Buy steaks 1 1/2 inches thick so they can build a crust before the center passes medium rare. Thinner filets overcook while you're still waiting for the pepper to brown.
New York strip is the other good choice. It has more fat and a beefier taste, and it usually costs less per pound. Two 12 ounce strips, 1 1/4 inches thick, serve four once sliced. Trim the fat cap down to about 1/4 inch, or it'll take longer to render than the meat takes to cook. Ribeye works too, though its pockets of fat compete with the cream and the plate can feel heavy.
Whatever you buy, pat the steaks dry while you crack the pepper. A dry surface browns in minutes and releases cleanly from a properly preheated titanium-surface pan. A wet one steams, and the pepper slides off with the moisture.
What temperature should the steak reach?
Use an instant read thermometer pushed in from the side to the very center. Thick steaks keep cooking as they rest, usually by 5 to 10 degrees, so pull them before they hit your target.
| Doneness | Pull from the pan | After resting | Center looks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rare | 115 to 120°F | 120 to 125°F | Deep red, barely warm |
| Medium rare | 125°F | 130 to 135°F | Warm and rosy red |
| Medium | 135 to 140°F | 145°F | Pink and firmer |
| Medium well | 145 to 150°F | 150 to 155°F | A trace of pink |
The USDA safe minimum temperature chart lists 145°F for beef steaks, followed by a 3 minute rest. That's medium on the table above. Rare and medium rare steaks sit below the USDA minimum, and plenty of cooks still choose them for whole cuts of beef. If you're serving anyone pregnant, older or with a weakened immune system, cook the steaks to that minimum and give them the full rest before the sauce goes over.
Is it safe to flambé cognac at home?
Yes, as long as you control the alcohol and the space around the stove. The flame burns off the raw spirit taste in under a minute and leaves a rounder, faintly caramel flavor in the sauce. The risk comes from vapor. Cognac is about 40 percent alcohol, and once it's warm it lights very easily.
- Measure the cognac into a cup first. Never pour straight from the bottle near a flame, because fire can travel up the stream.
- Turn off the exhaust fan, which can pull the flames upward, and move towels, paper and the bottle away from the stove.
- Take the skillet off the burner before you add the cognac.
- Put it back over medium heat, stand back and light the edge of the pan with a long lighter. On a gas stove, tilting the pan toward the burner does the same job.
- Keep a lid within reach. If the flames haven't died down after about a minute, slide it on to smother them.
The flames jump high for a few seconds, then shrink to a blue flicker. Wait until they're gone before adding the stock. If you'd rather not light it at all, simmer the cognac for 60 seconds instead.
Building the cream sauce in the same pan
The sauce takes about 6 minutes, roughly the time the steaks need to rest. Pour off all but a thin film of fat, but keep the browned bits and any loose pepper, since they carry most of the flavor. Melt a tablespoon of butter over medium heat and cook the shallot for about a minute, scraping as you go.
After the cognac, add the stock and boil it down by half. Then pour in the cream and simmer until the bubbles turn small and glossy and the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Stir in a teaspoon of Dijon if you like a sharper finish, plus the juices that have collected under the resting steaks. Taste before you salt. The fond and pepper already bring plenty.
Spoon the sauce over and around the steaks rather than drowning them, so the crust stays crisp. Garlic mashed potatoes catch whatever runs off the plate, while crispy smashed potatoes give you the crunch of bistro frites without a deep fryer. A sharp green salad with a mustard vinaigrette cuts through the cream.
The recipe
Steak au Poivre with Cognac Cream Sauce
Ingredients
For the steaks
- 4 filet mignon steaks, 6 to 8 oz (170 to 225 g) each and 1 1/2 inches thick
- 2 1/2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 1 tablespoon high smoke point oil, such as avocado or grapeseed
For the cognac cream sauce
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 1 large shallot, finely minced (about 1/4 cup)
- 1/3 cup (80 ml) cognac or other brandy
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) beef or chicken stock
- 3/4 cup (180 ml) heavy cream
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional)
- Kosher salt to taste
- 1 tablespoon chopped chives or flat-leaf parsley, for serving
Instructions
- Crack the pepper. Crack the peppercorns coarsely under a heavy skillet or in a mortar, then shake them in a fine sieve to remove the powder. Pat the steaks very dry with paper towels.
- Season the steaks. Salt the steaks on all sides, then press the cracked pepper firmly into both flat sides with the heel of your hand until it stays put.
- Sear the first side. Heat a 12 inch titanium-surface skillet over medium high heat for 2 minutes, add the oil and lay in the steaks. Sear without moving for 4 minutes, until the crust is dark brown and the steaks release easily.
- Finish and rest. Flip and cook 3 to 4 minutes more, then hold each steak on its edge with tongs for 30 seconds per side. Pull at 125°F for medium rare or 140°F for medium, and rest on a rack for 5 minutes.
- Flambé the cognac. Pour off the fat, lower the heat to medium, melt the butter and cook the shallot for 1 minute. Take the pan off the heat, add the cognac, return it to the burner and light it with a long lighter, letting the flames burn out, 30 to 60 seconds.
- Reduce and add cream. Add the stock and boil until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the cream and simmer 2 to 3 minutes, until the sauce coats a spoon, then add the Dijon, the resting juices and salt to taste.
- Sauce and serve. Set the steaks on warm plates, spoon the sauce over and around them, and scatter the chives on top. Serve right away while the crust is still crisp.
Cook's notes
- Green peppercorns in brine, a tablespoon stirred in with the cream, add a milder second layer of pepper.
- Strip steaks work the same way. Use two 12 oz steaks, 1 1/4 inches thick, and slice them before serving.
- Leftover steak keeps 3 to 4 days in the fridge. Slice it cold and warm the sauce separately so the meat doesn't overcook.
- The sauce can't be made ahead without losing the fond, but you can crack the pepper and mince the shallot hours in advance.
Steak au Poivre questions
Do I have to set the cognac on fire?
No. Flaming burns off the raw alcohol taste quickly and adds a faintly caramel note, but simmering the cognac for about 60 seconds gets you most of the way there. The sauce will taste a little sharper and boozier. Either way, add the cognac with the pan off the heat and keep your face back from the skillet.
What can I use instead of cognac in steak au poivre?
Any brandy works, including Armagnac or an inexpensive VSOP. Bourbon gives a sweeter, oakier sauce that suits strip steak. For an alcohol free version, use an extra 1/3 cup of beef stock and a teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, then let it reduce a little longer so the sauce still tastes deep and savory.
Why does my pepper crust fall off in the pan?
Usually the steak was wet or the pepper wasn't pressed in hard enough. Pat the steaks dry, salt them, then press the cracked pepper on with the heel of your hand. Leave them alone for the full 4 minutes on the first side, because flipping early tears the crust away before it has bonded to the meat.
How spicy is steak au poivre?
It's peppery rather than chili hot. Coarsely cracked black pepper gives short bursts of heat and a woody aroma, and the cream sauce softens both. Sifting out the fine dust makes a real difference, because the powder is where the harsh burn comes from. For a milder plate, crust only one side of each steak.
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